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The Defining Trend of Autumn/Winter 2026: Velvet, Satin and Suede

There is a reason household designers are taking us on a journey of risk and adventure in their FW2026 collections: corporate decisions are not in favour of the ordinary shopper.
4 mins read

In case you slept under a rock, two major developments swept our algorithms this summer: AI training facilities powered by Amazon destroying works of literature, and confirmation of Meta’s deliberate involvement in targeting young users (as young as 12-14) for their social media platforms. On top of everything, the great delist of physical copies by Sony prompted the hacking of one of the most anticipated games in history, GTA6. 

Amidst all of this intervention, iridescence is emerging as the key theme to encompass cold-season collections, as if by command, serving to provoke a rebellion against digitisation. Whether to express the nascent battle between humans versus AI and tech — velvet, satin and suede are taking hold of the world’s runways. 

Reinventing the definition of renegade spirit, Burberry’s direction ‌purposefully sets audacious tone by layering bombers, hoodies, and raincoats over iridescent slinky trousers, while satin dresses revive elegance. Chief Creative Officer Daniel Lee underscores the united similarities that ever surround us, from all walks of life. “We all walk the same road. We are all lit by the same streetlamps. We all feel the same buzz of the city at night,” Lee says. Indeed, there is nothing more suitable than purple velvet trousers and mohair coats to settle into your wardrobe. 

Model on the runway at the Burberry fashion show in London, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #013

Model on the runway at the Burberry fashion show in Navy mohair coat with a shawl collar and leather belt defines this silhouette, layered over a dark silk scarf. The absence of extraneous embellishment highlights the texture of the wool and the structure of the leather accessories, focusing entirely on material quality and precise tailoring/NOWFASHION.com/Burberry

Beige windbreaker jacket layered over navy blue velvet trousers creates a contrast between technical utility and soft, tactile luxury. The structured collar and belted waist project a sense of controlled authority, grounding the fluid movement of the velvet fabric in a precise, deliberate silhouette/NOWFASHION.com/Burberry

Model on the runway at the Burberry fashion show in London, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #014
Model on the runway at the Burberry fashion show in London, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #037

Navy blue satin wrap dress features a high-sheen finish that catches light, creating depth against the matte black fur coat. The feathered trim on the hem adds movement, while the dark palette emphasizes the contrast between the fluid silk and dense, textured fur/NOWFASHION.com/Burberry

But as rigid conventions of past generations compel young academics to reinstate interest in politics, the subtle but decisive turn to 70s-inspired shrunken jackets with a cropped waist and longer sleeves completed with suede, taper into monochrome vintage some deem obsolete. Coach’s Creative Director Stuart Vevers evokes classic American style that reaches beyond the United States. Skate culture intertwines with old Hollywood, paving way for youthful classism as a renewed concept disproportionate to the desired continuity of repressiveness. Balanced nonchalance reveres tradition in atmospheric styling bound to break the gravitas of conservatism.

Black long-sleeve top tucked into a gray plaid midi skirt creates a balanced silhouette, with the skirt hem falling well below the knee and sleeves ending at the wrist, paired with black buckled boots and a small leather top-handle bag/NOWFASHION.com/COACH

Model on the runway at the Coach fashion show in New York, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #006
Model on the runway at the Coach fashion show in New York, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #014

Contrasting leather cuffs in a muted olive tone finish the sleeves of this blue and white cropped jacket, which is worn open over a bare torso and paired with tailored brown shorts and pink low-top sneakers/NOWFASHION.com/COACH

Layered plaid vest worn over a striped shirt and distressed wide-leg blue jeans defines this look. A brown leather belt cinches the waist, while a small blue clutch is held in hand, completing the textured, multi-layered composition/NOWFASHION.com/COACH

Model on the runway at the Coach fashion show in New York, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #018

Walking a fine line in commemorating the monochrome classics of the 90s, COS nods to assertive sophistication through relaxed proportions and fluid silhouettes: wide lapels enveloping leather blousons and flight jackets, with maxi and trench coats asserting an elevated presence of soft luxury.

Courtesy of COS

As the brand has established a distinctive presence within the New York fashion community, Jane How’s styling for the collection presented at New York Fashion Week reinforced the introspection at the core of Gia’s look.

Courtesy of COS

In 1998, Angelina Jolie masterfully portrayed the late American supermodel’s unabashed flair for fashion experimentation by wearing a white shirt with denim jeans and heeled black mid-ankle leather boots. This autumn and winter season, leather trousers and traditional tailoring in tandem with suede, cashmere and wool serve as a staple for presenting urban New York.

Geometric shapes are the epicentre of the Prive couture collection. Silvana Armani is confident in captivating femininity by accentuating sculptural opulence of a female body through a rich blend of burgundy, matte black, and dark blue palette. The waist‑defined, floor‑length velvet gowns closely resemble the 1995 Gucci runway velvet craze that critics hailed as a success. Combined with circular neckline constructions the chic of‌ Studio 54 is revived with shimmering glamour. That, and textured mini-tote bags with ruffle clutches add neo-classical elegance that completes the overall look of a revolutionary within. 

Model on the runway at the Giorgio Armani fashion show in Paris, Fall Winter 2026 Couture Fashion Week, Runway Look #053

Deep burgundy velvet defines this floor-length gown, which balances the opacity of its heavy fabric with a sculptural, circular shoulder detail. The one-shoulder silhouette creates a stark contrast against the exposed skin, while the solid, dark tone emphasizes the fluid drape of the velvet/NOWFASHION.com/GIORGIO ARMANI

Sculptural circular neckline construction defines this dark blue velvet gown, eliminating the need for visible buttons or external closures. The fluid fabric drapes into a column silhouette, maintaining a clean, uninterrupted surface that emphasizes the architectural form of the bodice/NOWFASHION.com/GIORGIO ARMANI

Model on the runway at the Giorgio Armani fashion show in Paris, Fall Winter 2026 Couture Fashion Week, Runway Look #055
Model on the runway at the Giorgio Armani fashion show in Paris, Fall Winter 2026 Couture Fashion Week, Runway Look #026

Dark navy velvet bomber jacket features a central zip closure, paired with matching straight-leg trousers. A delicate lace top is visible beneath the jacket, while black statement earrings provide a contrast to the monochromatic deep blue fabric of the suit/NOWFASHION.com/GIORGIO ARMANI

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons entice with embroidery and satin midi dresses while simultaneously imposing the notion of self-determination. While layering appears to be the staple to the ever-shifting character of a woman, floral graphic prints bloom vivaciously through clothing, revealing demarcations that separate bold versus sensual. This isn’t about spontaneity expressed in multitudinous layers, but a discovery of oneself through experimentation. Winter wardrobes are exuberant with time-old turtlenecks, cardigans and all sorts of sweaters, but a good monochrome knit crewneck or jacket is the right choice this year. 

Deep forest green knit sweater anchors the ensemble, while the black midi skirt introduces a vibrant yellow floral print through its front-slit panels, creating a sharp contrast between the solid, muted upper and the patterned, layered lower half/NOWFASHION.com/PRADA

Model on the runway at the Prada fashion show in Milan, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #019

Sheer gray midi dress with black floral embroidery moves fluidly with the stride, the lightweight fabric catching the air while the structured black leather bucket bag remains steady in hand, grounding the airy silhouette against the movement of the walk/NOWFASHION.com/PRADA

Model on the runway at the Prada fashion show in Milan, Fall Winter 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Runway Look #051

If the Greeks linked iridescence to Iris, goddess of the rainbow and messenger of the Olympian gods, and the Aztecs forbade any attempt to diminish the power of this optical phenomenon, then today its strength resides not in its diffraction but in what it represents. It is a gaudy sensation that fuels the incessant push against techno‑feudalism. Its unwavering resistance to constancy urges us to stay vigilant in times of significant change. Even if we are physically powerless, the iridescence in our closet will never trample our spirits.

Yan Sorochynskyi

Enthralled by the entertainment industry, Yan is a reporter for The Brighton Starling. He also provides coverage of music reviews, news, and interviews featuring industry professionals. Yan is studying Journalism at the University of Brighton and is keen to work with underrepresented voices.

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